When it comes to food towns, New Jersey is a state that punches well above its weight. From Montclair to Asbury Park, the Garden State boasts a culinary scene that’s as diverse as it is impressive. But what happens when a new restaurant tries to carve out its niche in a town that’s already brimming with options? That’s the question I found myself pondering after hearing about Cotto, a modern Italian restaurant that recently opened in Morristown. Personally, I think Morristown is one of those towns that’s often included in the ‘great food town’ conversation, but it’s rarely at the top of the list. It’s a place where quantity often overshadows quality, and Cotto seems to be aiming to change that—or at least, that’s the ambition.
What makes this particularly fascinating is the backstory of the restaurant group behind Cotto. The Stirling Restaurant Group, led by John and Christy Baldassare, already has a foothold in Morristown with establishments like Stirling Tavern and Dublin Pub. But Cotto feels different. It’s not just another Irish pub or New American eatery; it’s a bold attempt to bring modern Italian cuisine to a town that, let’s be honest, could use a bit of culinary innovation. Christy Baldassare’s comment about filling a ‘need’ in New Jersey resonated with me. There’s no shortage of Italian restaurants in the state, but how many of them are truly pushing boundaries?
One thing that immediately stands out is the hiring of Jordan Petriello as executive chef. Petriello’s resume is impressive—from Michelin-starred Rezdôra in New York to Jockey Hollow Bar and Kitchen in Morristown—and it’s clear the Baldassares knew they needed someone with his pedigree to elevate Cotto. But here’s where things get interesting: while Petriello’s menu is undeniably creative, it doesn’t always hit the mark. Take the cacio e pepe salad, for example. In my opinion, it’s a missed opportunity. The dish feels like a half-hearted attempt to reimagine a classic, and the execution falls flat. What many people don’t realize is that innovation isn’t just about reinventing; it’s about perfecting the reinvention.
If you take a step back and think about it, Cotto’s menu is a study in contrasts. On one hand, you have dishes like the baked oysters with green asparagus crema—a dish that’s both elegant and flavorful. On the other, there’s the spicy rigatoni, which, despite its name, lacks the heat it promises. This raises a deeper question: what does it mean for a restaurant to be ‘modern Italian’? Is it about using seasonal ingredients and contemporary techniques, or is it about delivering on the expectations of a name? From my perspective, Cotto seems to be grappling with this identity crisis.
A detail that I find especially interesting is the restaurant’s design. Christy Baldassare’s vision for the space is undeniably sophisticated, with its green walls, marbled tables, and open kitchen. It’s a space that feels both luxurious and approachable, which is no small feat. But what this really suggests is that Cotto understands the importance of ambiance—something that’s often overlooked in the culinary world. A great meal isn’t just about the food; it’s about the entire experience.
However, as much as I want to root for Cotto, I can’t ignore its limitations. While it’s undoubtedly one of the best restaurants in Morristown, it doesn’t hold a candle to statewide heavyweights like Cafe 2825 or 15 Fox Place. What this really suggests is that standing out in a smaller town is one thing, but competing on a larger stage is another. Cotto has the potential to grow, but it needs to refine its approach and establish a clearer point of view.
In the end, Cotto is a restaurant that almost makes Morristown live up to its overrated food town reputation. Almost. It’s a place that’s worth visiting if you’re in the area, but it’s not yet a destination in its own right. And that’s okay. Every great restaurant has to start somewhere, and Cotto is clearly still finding its footing. Personally, I’m excited to see where it goes from here—because if there’s one thing New Jersey doesn’t need, it’s another mediocre Italian restaurant. But if there’s one thing it could always use, it’s a restaurant that dares to be exceptional.
